Urban Indian
Its not the name of a new team coming to play the IPL, but a brief introduction to the various rulers and dynasties who ruled over Hyderabad. I have lived in and loved the city of Hyderabad and a large part of my blog is devoted to the city. This piece of writing intends to provide a greater understanding of how the hillock of Golconda metamorphosed to this sprawling urban Indian IT hub. It will also help you gain a perspective in the Telangana struggle for independence.
Kakatiya Dynasty in Golconda, Hyderabad(1083 to 1323)
One of the earliest and the only Hindu rulers of the city – or whatever it was back then of Golconda was the Kakatiya dynasty. They ruled over what is currently the state of Andhra Pradesh and they had the city of Warangal as their capital for nearly three centuries. They did not have a large presence in Hyderabad – only a small outpost at Golconda.
Bahmani Sultanate in Golconda, Hyderabad(1347 to 1527)
The Bahmani Sultanate were originally from Iran and were patrons of Persian language, culture and literature. They had control over parts of present day Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Karnataka and eventually the empire disintegrated into the Deccan sultanates of Bijapur, Golconda, Ahmadnagar, Bidar, and Berar
Qutb Shahi Dynasty in Golconda, Hyderabad(1518 to 1687)
The founder of the dynasty served under the Bahmani Sultanate. After the formation of the Deccan Sultanates, he declared independence from the Bahmani Sultanate and founded the Qutb Shahi dynasty of Golconda. The Telugu speaking state was divided into a Hindu ruled kingdom and a Muslim ruled kingdom during this time period. This was the time that gave rise to Telangana as the Hindu ruled kingdom.
The Qutb Shahi dynasty built the magnificent Charminar, the grand fort of Golconda, the Qutb Shahi tombs and the Mecca Masjid.
The Moghuls in Golconda, Hyderabad (1687 to 1720)
The all conquering Moghuls attacked Golconda under the leadership of Aurengxeb and won the fort after heavy bombing – the effects of which can still be seen on the great fort of Golconda which is renowned for its architecture and acoustics even today.
The Nizams of Hyderabad(1720 to 1948)
The Asaf Jah dynasty were crowned the Nizam’s of Hyderabad by the Moghuls and charged with administrating the kingdom of Hyderabad. After the death of Aurengzeb and the subsequent weakening of the Moghuls, Asaf Jah, the young Nizam declared his sovereignty and crowned himself the ruler of Hyderabad. The Nizams were and still are one of the wealthiest people of the world. The state of Hyderabad and the Nizams themselves prospered during the rule of the Asaf Jah dynasty. They had a very liberal attitude towards Shia and Non muslims. They were profilic builders and were responsible for building and creating many different building of present day Hyderabad.
The Asaf Jahis were assisted by the nobles of Hyderabad called as the Salarjungs and the Paigahs.
The Paigahs of Hyderabad
The Paigahs played a very important role in the founding of Hyderabad. The daughters of Nizams were given in marriage only to the Paigahs hence creating a unique class of nobles. The Paigahs built the palace of Falaknuma, Asmangarh and Basheer Bagh palace.
The Salarjungs of Hyderabad
The Salarjungs of Hyderabad were next in hierarchy to the Paigahs and were the statesmen and administrative officers of the Nizam. Salar Jung 1, who served three Nizams, gained international reputation for his bureaucratic efficiency and far reaching social reforms. Salar Jung 2 was the prime minister for just 3 years. Salarjung 3 was prime minister for 2 years before he decided to retire and he went around travelling the world. He collected various masterpieces of art and culture from all over the world which are now housed at the famous Salarjung Museum.
Just read this article in Rediff. It argues how Capitalism is crumbling and what is required to revive it. Do check out my article about Gandhian Economics here.
The theory of Trusteeship – one which was promulgated by Gandhiji and the likes of Tata, Birla, Sarabhais and Lalbhai of Arvind Mills fame creates a culture that helps provide opportunities to the poorest of the poor. It is a realization by the corporates that there is a l0t beyond just earning money. And that lot constitutes social responsibilities too.
Decentralization by lending more power to the city or village bodies can also lead to a better infrastructure, more facilities for its people and less bending of the laws to favor the high and mighty. Delhi rocks because it is a city state and just imagine where could Mumbai be if it were provided with such an administrative structure.
I read the news this morning and since then I haven’t had a moment’s peace.
They are expanding the road near my place (from CH- 0 to Adalaj for those who know Gnagar) now to a 6 lane road. Its a four lane road which barely sees 40 vehicles an hour and yet the “development” will continue for the Gujarat Government. Consequences:
1. Loads of money to contractors and hence to the politicos and the bureaucracy. Nothing new – its expected.
2. Cars go faster on this road and hence the bureaucrats in the capital city of Gandhinagar benefit. Buses are rare and the commoners usually rely on getting lifts from cars to reach Ahmedabad.
3. Trees on both sides which make this part of the road the coolest and most beautiful place to drive will be cut and its beauty destroyed. It hurts as I have seen the beautiful SG highway getting destroyed day after day.
4. Price of land on both sides – which currently is 50 lakh rupees a Bigha – 2400 sq metres will increase even more and the farmers who own the land – now rolling amongst millions will sell it to create a few more apartment schemes, malls or duplex bungalows.
I am not against development, but what irks me the most that somehow in this country of ours all that happens in the name of development is that the rich get richer. The government should be proactive in protecting the environment and in helping its citizens – especially the common man to be able to live a better life. Which unfortunately hasn’t been happening. Gujarat is a state that is responsible for 30% of the country’s industrial waste and pollution and has one of the least amounts of green cover.
I was angry, I still am. I believe that it has to do with the fact that in spite of traveling all over the country, I love and long for the peace and tranquility that only beautiful, well planned, green Gandhinagar can give. And the stupid politicos destroying its greenery hurts me a real lot. Just hope that those in power see some sense and plant more trees this monsoon.
If Haridwar is the holy city, then Rishikesh is considered the Yoga city. Rishikesh is one of the names of Lord Vishnu which means “Lord of the Senses”.
Rishikesh is just 16 kilometres and half an hour away from Haridwar, yet the differences between the cities cannot be exaggerated. Haridwar is a city for the religious tourist whereas Rishikesh is for the spiritual tourists. It is, but does not seem to be as commercialized as Haridwar. Its very green and beautiful and the large number of Ashrams that dot the city make it seem a very calm and serene place for the spiritual seeker. I could see why the Beatles lived here and enjoyed their stay in Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s Ashram. The flavor of the season, in India atleast, is undoubtedly Baba Ramdevji. He also has a huge campus here and he has set up his enterprise here that churns out herbs and ayurvedic medicines reaching out to most of Urban India.
This being one of my earliest photography expeditions, the snaps seem to be great examples of bad photography to me as I browse through them right now. Here are some of the ones I found the best though.
Rishikesh Streets
Check out the Yoga advertisement on the right side wall.
Triveni Sangam at Rishikesh
I was and still am squeamish about having a bath in a river. I, in fact wasn’t even ready to dip my feet into the river. I still haven’t figured out whether it is a result of my being agnostic or its a result of my usual disdain for convention.
Triveni Ghat
A holy dip at the Triveni Ghats is considered to be very auspicious by many.
Tera Manzil Temple, Rishikesh
A view of the Tera Manzil Temple from beside the Laxman Jhula at Rishikesh.
Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh
White Water Rafting is a big sport in the area around Rishikesh. In fact many adventure sports like rock climbing, rapeling etc. draw a lot of tourists to Rishikesh. The Ganges is comparatively quite sedate by the time it reaches Rishikesh and so most adventure sports enthusiasts need to start from somewhere more upstream. But Rishikesh has many adventure sport facilities too. Here is one boat going down the Ganges.
White Water Rafting, Rishikesh
The serenity of these streets though, is what struck me the most. It was a very peaceful and calm environment in Rishikesh. With the chirping of the birds and the Ganges flowing nearby, the environment all along the banks of the river was what attracted me most to this place.
Rishikesh Streets
Another wonderful treat at Rishikesh was having food at a restaurant called as Chotiwala’s. It had a special mention in my Lonely Planet and so I sought it out. The best part of having food at the restaurant was that they provided many different varieties of Thalis – Bengali, Gujarati, Rajasthani etc. – and everything was vegetarian – of course. I had a Bengali thali and liked it, though it wasn’t much different from the Gujarati one, except for the larger quantity of rice. More of it in the Foodie section though.
